Vegan Fashion 101: Is Silk Vegan?
By KD Angle-Traegner / Last Update: August 2020
Silk is synonymous with luxury; it’s known for being soft, delicate, and lustrous. You’ll spot it in clothing, bedding, furniture, and even paper products like wallpaper or stationery.
So, what is silk anyway? And where does it originate?
However, the question isn’t where it originates; it’s from whom it originates.
Let’s take a closer look.
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8 – 10
What is Silk?
What is it and who does it come from?
Silkworm on a Green Stem / Source
Silk Comes From Worms
So, what is silk? And where does it come from, or rather, from whom?
Silk is a viscous protein substance secreted from the glands of silkworms, which then hardens on contact with the air, thus creating silk.
It is gathered from the cocoon of a silkworm. To obtain a single, unbroken filament, the silkworm is killed before it can emerge from the cocoon so that the strands can remain unbroken. This is done by boiling, baking, or steaming the worm directly in its cocoon- alive.
The Lifecycle of a Silkworm
Silkworms begin their lives as an egg that hatches ten days after being laid.
The newly hatched silkworms will eat for 20-30 days, consuming large amounts of tender mulberry leaves. They’ll continue to eat non-stop, eating so many leaves that they will have increased their weight over 10,000 times and molted through four changes of the skin.
Incredibly delicate, silkworms are affected deeply by their surroundings. Any loud noises, temperature changes, or even strong smells will cause them to stop eating.
Once fully grown, the silkworm will attach themself to a twig to begin the task of spinning a protective cocoon for protection as they develop into the chrysalis (pupa). The silkworm secretes chemicals that, once they react with the air, solidifies to form silk. From start to finish, this process takes about three days to complete.
After the silkworm has spun its cocoon, they will stay there for 16 days to transform. Once complete, they’ll begin to excrete a brown fluid that dissolves a hole in the silk so that they can emerge.
The newly emerged moth will then mate, and the female will lay more than 300-500 eggs.
The Bleak Evolution of the Silkworm
The natural breeding cycle of silkworms occurs once a year.
Sadly though, the silkworm no longer exists in nature.
Humans have been farming silkworms for so many thousands of years the caterpillar has evolved to become entirely dependent on us. Selective breeding (repeated up to three times in a single year) over generations has expunged the moth’s ability to fly.
Today, 100% of silkworms are now bred and farmed in homes and on farms.
How Is Silk Made?
Learn how silk is crafted.
Silkworm on a Green Stem / Source
The method of obtaining silk thread from cocoon is known as Post-Cocoon Processing. This includes Stifling and Reeling. Stifling is the process of killing the cocoons. Good size cocoons of 8-10 days old are selected and dropped into hot water, during which they are continuously stirred with a rod which causes their outer portion to be loosened and removed in the form of long tapes and the end of the continuous filament is found. Reeling involves removing the threads from the killed cocoons. Four or five free ends of the threads are passed through eyelets and guides to twist into one thread and wound round a large wheel from which it is transferred to spools. The silk obtained on the spool is then called Raw-Silk or Reeled Silk. The waste outer layer or damaged cocoons and threads are separated, teased and then the filament are spun. This spun silk is called Spun-Silk. It takes 55,000 cocoons to make 2 lbs of silk. (2)
What About Ahimsa or Peace Silk?
Ahimsa, or Peace Silk, is silk that is processed from cocoons without killing the pupae inside and though some might think that this type of silk is vegan, it is not. The silkworm is raised just like conventional cultivated silk, up to the stage where the cocoons would be processed with heat (killing the silkworm). Ahisma silkworms are allowed to hatch and breed, and the silk is made from hatched cocoons. It might sound good so far- but not so fast:
“…each fertilized female moth will lay between 200 and 1000 eggs, averaging around 500. In some strains, the eggs will require refrigeration – without refrigeration, the living embryos within the fertilized eggs will wither and die over the course of a month or two. If they are refrigerated, they will hatch upon removal from refrigeration, in which case they have to be fed immediately, or they will die of starvation and dehydration. Either process will require the destruction of approximately 200 – 300 embryos or hatchling silkworm per moth, for any amount that exceeds what is required for the next crop. Instead of killing one pupa for the silk of the cocoon, it kills hundreds of caterpillars. In India, where the vast majority of Ahimsa silk is being raised, most silkworm strains are multivoltine. This means that the silkworms do not undergo refrigeration, and the eggs will hatch approximately two weeks after being laid. The ones that are not fed will die within a day of hatching, from a combination of dessication and starvation. In a batch of, say, 20,000 cocoons, this means that the next generation (if they were all raised) would be two and a half million, and the generation after that, three hundred twelve million. It’s just not possible to feed so many. While it may be true that the individual caterpillar that spun the cocoon didn’t die inside it, its offspring will have to be ruthlessly culled. Is it considered more virtuous to create conditions of wholesale starvation, to avoid killing the pupa quickly with heat?” (3)
How is Silk Listed on Labels?
It would be great if the labels on our clothing, bedding, and other textiles would list the animal that the natural materials came from, but sadly that isn’t the case. Not only are the labels ambiguous in terms of who the raw material was cultivated from, there are a plethora of names to describe the type and weave of the textile. This can confuse even the most well-informed consumer. I’ve listed some of the most common names you might find listed on a label, but this is by no means an exhaustive list. When the origin of a textile is in doubt, avoiding it in favor of a plant-based alternative may be the only solution.
Brocade, Canton Crepe, Charmeuse, Chiffon, China Silk, Doupinoni, Faille, Georgette, Matelasse, Noil, Organza, Peau de Soie, Pongee, Poult de soie, Silk Shantung, Silk Broadcloth, Silk Linen, Silk Satin, and Tussah Silk. Note that Chiffon, Georgette, Crepe, and Satin may also be made from synthetic fibers, so be sure to check the label for fabric content prior to purchasing.
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Your Daily Vegan is committed to providing accurate information to the vegan community. The information and data presented in this article has been meticulously researched, and is based on the information available to me at the time of publication. Each guide is periodically reviewed for accuracy and updated as necessary. You can find the update date listed at the end of every guide. Please contact me if you find out-of-date or incorrect information.
Silkworm Cocoon Closeup
Cocoons in vat
Hand holding silk cocoons
Closeup of opened silkworm cocoon